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Overview of Center Route on First Sister. There are two possible
starts. The leftmost, and preferred, start has a bomber anchor tree and
two bolts. Although the first bolt is 20 feet off the deck, the climbing
is around 5.2. The rightmost route starts from the large, obvious boulder
at First Sister's base. It is ideal for rappels.
There is some confusion about bolt placement on this route. Rubine's guidebook shows two bolts above the second, and a two-bolt anchor on top. However, I saw nothing between the second bolt and a new, intermediate belay station, except for a rusted, bare bolt. While the climbing is easy, the runout is pretty serious, and the belayer's view of the climber is blocked for much of the route. I was able to get a pretty good sling around a knob (shown on picture), but I wouldn't trust my life on it. When I led, I tied off to the intermediate anchor. As I could not see any bolts above me, or an anchor at the top, I did not climb to the top. |