"The Sponge", seen from the north, along the High Peaks Trail. I led the 5.2 Regular Route, and then set up a toprope for 5.6X Holes. Regular Route was pretty dangerously run-out at the bottom and the top, but there are three (rusty, nasty) bolts in the most difficult center section. A bomber knob is there for you if you don't trust the bolts. Rubine's guidebook shows two bolts, but there is a third one (the middle one on this photo). Be sure to use a long runner to minimize rope zigzag--rope drag is a serious issue at the top, and also with the condition of the bolts, you don't want to risk a zipper fall for no reason. I remember a couple fairly tough moves at the very top of the arete. Because I was basically unprotected, and the rope drag was monumental, I tried to traverse the front face of the arete. Unfortunately, the rock was loose and lichen-covered, the drag got much worse, and the climbing was dicier than I thought. So I backtracked and just went over the top. The anchor is about 15 feet past the summit. Regular Route is not rappellable with a single rope. We rapped Holes with a 60-meter rope, but with only 5 feet to spare. Also, there are many places for the rope to hang. In spite of the difficulties, the rock here was very cool, with huge pockets, and quite solid. Also, the whole Regular Route was airy and exposed, with great views.